Anthropocene Magazine · Climate & nature

Mushroom leather may finally be ready for mass production

Researchers in Finland have developed a method to produce leather-like fabrics from fungi using industrial equipment, a significant step towards large-scale vegan and plastic-free leather alternatives. This new process utilizes renewable resources and avoids harsh chemicals, differentiating it from traditional animal or synthetic leather production.

The developed process uses renewable feedstocks and mild conditions, avoiding livestock and chemically intensive methods, according to industrial biotechnologist Géza Szilvay from VTT Finland. While animal hides have been used for centuries, ethical synthetic leathers are made from fossil fuel-based plastics, contributing to carbon emissions and environmental persistence.

Mycelium, the root-like structure of fungi, is being explored as a sustainable vegan leather alternative. It grows quickly with minimal resources and is fully biodegradable. Mycelium-based leather, once processed into mats, is soft, supple, and can be textured and dyed.

Previous challenges with mycelium leather included inconsistency in thickness and fragility. The new approach involves growing mycelium in a liquid nutrient medium to create a pulp, which is then washed and mixed with sorbitol for softness and cellulose for strength. This mixture is formed into thin sheets and dried.

The team achieved a production rate of 1 meter of material per minute using a roll-to-roll process, allowing for tunable fabric properties. While some formulations match the mechanical properties of animal leather, further research is needed to improve tear strength and abrasion resistance. The researchers believe this biotechnology-derived material has the potential to replace non-renewable synthetic leathers.

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