Smithsonian Magazine · People & society

Shikoku: Japan's Island of Pilgrimage, Nature, and Hospitality

Shikoku, Japan's smallest and least populated main island, offers a unique blend of spiritual journeys, natural beauty, and profound hospitality, drawing visitors to its historic pilgrimage route and diverse prefectures.

The 750-mile Shikoku Pilgrimage connects 88 temples, drawing 100,000-150,000 visitors annually. Associated with monk Kobo Daishi, the route spans paved paths and wilderness. Pilgrims stay in ryokan, temple lodgings, or inns.

Shikoku, Japan's most rustic island, was bridged to the mainland in 1988. It remains a rural destination. Its four prefectures—Ehime, Kagawa, Kochi, and Tokushima—have distinct cultures and cuisines.

The island's 'o-settai' tradition of hospitality aids pilgrims, who are seen as Kobo Daishi in disguise. This kindness draws visitors back, fostering a desire to return.

Kochi Prefecture is known for produce like yuzu. Kagawa is 'Udon Prefecture.' Ehime has natural scenery and hot springs. Tokushima produces indigo dye and Otani Ware pottery.

The Bando Prisoner of War Camp in Naruto, Tokushima, highlights Shikoku's openness. German soldiers shared their culture with locals.

Despite challenging terrain, the lasting impressions are the encounters and hospitality experienced on Shikoku, a tradition of welcoming pilgrims for centuries.

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