Smithsonian Magazine · People & society

Focaccia di Recco: A Ligurian Cheese-Filled Flatbread

Focaccia di Recco is a distinct yeast-free flatbread from Italy's Liguria region, differing significantly from the more common, soft focaccia. This specialty is characterized by its thin, crispy dough filled with melted cheese.

This Ligurian specialty is a thin, yeast-free flatbread filled with cheese, typically crescenza or stracchino, and baked until golden and crispy. It holds a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) designation, meaning authentic focaccia di Recco can only be made in the towns of Recco, Camogli, Sori, or Avegno.

The history of focaccia di Recco dates back to at least 1189, with its current form emerging around the 16th century during Saracen pirate raids. It became a staple sold in bakeries and taverns by the late 1800s and remains a significant part of the Ligurian diet.

Making authentic focaccia di Recco requires specific ingredients, including Type '0' Italian flour and crescenza cheese. The dough is stretched extremely thin, almost transparent, and baked at high temperatures, ideally in a pizza oven, to achieve a crispy exterior and creamy cheese filling.

The PGI status is protected by a consortium that safeguards its tradition against imitations. Without this designation, the bread should be called 'focaccia col formaggio' (focaccia with cheese).

While several restaurants in the United States offer versions of this specialty, achieving the perfect focaccia di Recco at home can be challenging, particularly due to the high baking temperatures required. Home ovens may struggle to replicate the ideal crispness and delicate texture.

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