Smithsonian Magazine · People & society

Roman Empire's Fashion Exhibition Highlights Power and Status

An exhibition at the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek in Copenhagen explores how clothing, dyes, and perfumes conveyed power and status in the Roman Empire, challenging modern perceptions of color and gender.

The exhibition, "The Power of Fashion in the Roman Empire," features 171 objects, including Roman sculptures and loans from international museums, alongside sensory experiences. It aims to illuminate the society and power structures of the time through the lens of fashion.

A sculpture of Emperor Tiberius, originally depicted in hot pink, demonstrates how colors like pink and purple, derived from rare sea snail dyes, signified wealth and authority, contrary to modern gender associations.

The accessibility of dye materials influenced the status of colors, with "purpura" (purple) being among the rarest and most prized. The pursuit of prestigious dyes was a dynamic and evolving trend.

The exhibition also incorporates recreated ancient perfumes, with scent stations offering floral notes worn by Roman men and stronger perfumes favored by women. Interactive listening posts feature readings of ancient texts where fashion choices are discussed in relation to leadership.

Notable loans include rare tunics from the British Museum and a sculpture of Emperor Septimius Severus wearing lionskin boots.

The exhibition runs until March 29, 2027.

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